
Tallangatta to Mount Beauty 49 miles (116 miles total).
We awoke at 5:30 in order to start the day before the heat hammered us. Today we are meeting our friend Darlene at her sister's house in the town of Mt. Beauty and then going to her folks' house for dinner. She warned us before our ride about her father, Jock, who is apparently rough as guts. Should be interesting. We were on our way quickly and told our fast boys again to score us a good spot at the next camp. The ride to the first rest stop was easy so we didn't stay long and Ed and I rode together to lunch. The planners did a great job of planning the spot as it was right next to the Kiewa River, so we had our sandwiches at the river's edge with a hundred other bikers, and then had a stroll through the cold water.

After lunch the ride was a tough uphill slog and Ed moved ahead while I chugged along at my usual pace. The ride is actually not terribly difficult once one gets into a cadence, then it's just a matter of shifting gears to keep it. As a rule I cruise along at about 25k/hr when the rode is an uphill grade.

(As a note, Ed normally doesn't have a mustache but we were part of a fundraiser called Movember, where we raised money for prostate cancer research. I shaved mine for the ride. Ed looks like a bike cop.)
Near the end of the ride there was one bastard of a hill that I had to stop on just to give my nether regions a rest. I had passed Ed earlier as he stopped to give his brother a hand fixing a tire. Ed pulled up a few minutes after me and was about as happy as I was to give it a rest. A few minutes later we were back on for the last push into Mt. Beauty. We rolled into the outskirts town and Darlene shouted out to us from her sister's front porch. It was great to see her and she told us she had been watching our boys roll into town since around 10. We stopped for about a half hour and figured out our plans.
We rode to camp where our boys had claimed a stake at home plate of a softball diamond. (This is increasingly becoming a challenge for our boys as no one is permitted to set up camp until noon, due to safety reasons with the semi rigs negotiating the grounds. Our boys snuck in through a neighboring backyard and staked our claim, right under some nice shady trees. They are becoming our Special Forces team, negotiating themselves through enemy territory).
Once there, we were soon in the back seat of Darlene's car as she and her son, Tom, drove us to the local swimming hole. Man, it was awesome. A cold river with kids swinging in from a rope and crayfish scuttling about...just like home. A perfect antidote to the blazing sun and heat.
Eventually we made it to her parents' house for the most memorable night of the entire ride. We arrived, laden with dirty clothes to wash and a taste for barbecue.
What we got was Jock. Jock was sitting at the kitchen table with Darlene's mom, rolling cigarettes between fingers the size of bratwursts. The house was an old weatherboard throwback to the 60s, with furniture and add-ons comfortably thirty years out of date. Jock is in his 60s, a retired cop still wearing a brush cut of white hair, and he immediately offered us a couple of beers. We were aware that tomorrow morning we were straight up Mt. Beauty itself, which is a daunting task sober, let alone feeling a bit filthy from a night of drinking. Jock regailed us with stories of how he got Darlene's boyfriend drunk and had him throwing up all night when he was 15, of how the bathtubs he turned into water features out the front of the house will add thousands to the value of his house, of how there is no place better in the world to live than Mt. Beauty, and of how Americans are dicks. This is a man who instilled a healthy sense of fear in us as he gave us beer after beer after beer. He goes through a case himself nightly.
After our laundry was finished I hung them on the line to dry at the house next door. Jock's daughter and son-in-law Marty lived there. Marty had survived a three story fall off a house where he broke his back, a chainsaw to the face, and had lost three of his fingers in an industrial accident. Marty wasn't to be fucked with. I was told how Marty was a truck driver "who fucking hates bikers" before I slipped over to hang up all our nice little lycra pants and shirts. As I was doing so I heard a shout from inside the house and then a bear of a man opened the back door and just stared at me.
"Who are you?"
"I'm Nick, I'm with Jock. We're having a barbecue." (please don't destroy me).
"Oh."
We shook hands and I went back to Jock's where I was fed another beer and Marty came over as well.
As the night wore on I grabbed a Coke to pace myself and Jock looked at me like I was The Biggest Pussy The World Has Ever Seen, and proceeded to start getting hooked into me before his wife stopped him. We sat around the table on the back porch of the house, discussing all things simple, and Marty provided his first-hand accounts of his hatred of bike riders, and then left. He didn't want to be around Ed and I.
As it grew dark more of the family came over and Jock became increasingly surreal in his ramblings, mentioning with utter passion how eating gnats out of the hair of a woman was the finest meal he has ever had. Ed and I just sat back, eating as much as possible, winding Jock up, and drinking more beer. Ed got his second wind eventually, raised his empty beer bottle, and looked at Jock with disbelief on his face and shouted out, "Jesus, Jock. A man is not a camel! Can I get some beer around here!" I had a good laugh about this but was unfortunately obliged to have yet another beer lest I become He Who Must Be Ridiculed.
At one point a little later a foul smell wafted by us and we were told that it was the sewage plant across the road.
"Yeah, when the surface isn't dry you can smell it." Jock said.
"So this is the best place on earth, eh?" I thought.
At one point Ed brought up "Chop Chop". This is an illegal crop of tobacco grown out here that is hush hush. People have been killed more than once due to its ties with the mafia. Jock got stuck into Ed dropping more than one, "What the fuck do you know about it?" before Ed let it go.
When we got to the point where it was too dark to see, Jock had verbally abused most of the people sitting with him, the other men had run out of sexist jokes, and we were afraid to drink any more, we decided we needed to go. We were saying our thank-yous, and as I shook Jock's hand, he raised a machete above his head and leered maniacally at me in the darkness.
"Holy Shit!" was the last thing Jock heard, or will ever here, from me.
Me, Ed, Darlene and Tom walked back to the campground and Darlene looked at me.
"So. Do you understand why I hate my father? Do you see why I ran from here when I was seventeen...screaming?"
"Yes. Yes I do."
I have no idea how such a lovely, kind, gentle person like Darlene could have sprung from the loins of such an absolute bigoted lunatic.
Ed and I crawled into the tent, relieved that we only had to bike up the side of a mountain tomorrow. I only hoped I wasn't hung over while doing it. Even if I was, it seemed less intimidating now.
After all, I survived Jock.